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culinaryNorth America🇲🇽Mexico

Oaxaca City: Mercado 20 de Noviembre, Santiago Matatlán & Tlacolula de Matamoros

Author
GoTripping Editorial
Published
May 24, 2026
Reading Time
4 min
Oaxaca City: Mercado 20 de Noviembre, Santiago Matatlán & Tlacolula de Matamoros

Oaxaca is Mexico's cultural and culinary soul. It is a stunning valley highland where bright, colonial-era streets echo with acoustic guitar strings, historic squares are framed by towering stone cathedrals, and generational family cooks preserve the ancestral secrets of complex chilies, herbs, and smoky mezcals.

To capture the true essence of this legendary culinary capital on your trip, you must balance grazing in smoky market aisles with tasting complex moles, drinking premium mezcals, and exploring the traditional food-producing villages of the valley. This curated itinerary takes you through four essential culinary hubs, complete with precise coordinates, transit directions, and hotel search links.

1. Mercado 20 de Noviembre

Mercado 20 de Noviembre is the bustling sensory center of Oaxaca's culinary scene. Just two blocks south of the main square, it is globally famous for its highly atmospheric Pasillo de Humo ("Hall of Smoke"), a narrow, charcoal-grill lined aisle filled with sizzling meats.

Step into the smoky Hall of Smoke, choosing a vendor to grill fresh strips of tasajo (thinly sliced beef), cecina (spiced pork), and chorizo over hot coals. Purchase fresh tlayudas, charred spring onions, and avocado salsa from passing vendors to build your ultimate taco. In the afternoon, browse the market aisles to sample rich mole pastes, artisanal Oaxacan string cheese (quesillo), and fresh stone-ground hot chocolate.

Tourist Navigator

Mercado 20 de Noviembre

Coordinates: 17.0581, -96.7266

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How to Get There

Located centrally inside Oaxaca's Historic Center. The market is highly walkable from anywhere in the downtown grid. Public city buses also drop off adjacent to the market gates.

Walkable Center City Bus Route
Places to Stay

Stay inside Centro Histórico for colonial boutique hotels, or adjacent Jalatlaco for quiet, leafy art neighborhood guest houses.

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2. Santiago Matatlán

Santiago Matatlán is the undisputed world capital of mezcal, nestled in the scenic eastern branch of the Oaxaca Valley. Here, generational families cultivate massive fields of agave plants and run traditional, artisanal distilleries known as palenques.

Tour an active palenque to see the ancient, wood-fired production process. Watch agaves being harvested, roasted in underground stone conical pits for days, and crushed using a horse-drawn volcanic stone wheel (tahona). The extracted sweet juice fermenting in large pine vats is then copper-distilled. Finish your visit with a tasting flight comparing the smooth Espadín with wild agaves like Tobalá or earthy Tepeztate.

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Santiago Matatlán

Coordinates: 16.8660, -96.3828

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How to Get There

Located 45km east of Oaxaca City along Highway 190. Board a shared Colectivo taxi (colored red and white) or local bus from outside the Central de Abastos terminal in Oaxaca City.

Highway 190 Valley Colectivo
Places to Stay

Stay inside central Oaxaca Centro for high-end boutique properties, or book a local rustic guest house in Santiago Matatlán.

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3. Tlacolula de Matamoros

Tlacolula de Matamoros is home to one of Mesoamerica's oldest continuously operating markets. This vibrant town is particularly famous for its Sunday market, where indigenous Zapotec traders come down from the surrounding mountains dressed in traditional embroidered tunics.

Feast on slow-cooked barbacoa de borrego (succulent sheep/goat wrapped in agave leaves and roasted in underground pits) served with steaming consome. Sip on cold tejate, a frothy pre-Hispanic drink prepared by hand using ground corn, cacao flower, and mamey pits. Finish your meal with a piece of warm pan de cazuela, a local wood-fired sweet bread baked with a core of rich Oaxacan chocolate.

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Tlacolula de Matamoros

Coordinates: 16.9564, -96.4764

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How to Get There

Located 30km east of Oaxaca City. Board a shared Colectivo taxi or a public bus from the Central de Abastos terminal in Oaxaca City. Travel time is around 40 minutes.

Colectivo Route Sunday Market Only
Places to Stay

Stay inside Oaxaca Centro for boutique properties, or local homestays in Tlacolula.

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4. Ocotlán de Morelos

![Templo de Ocotlán de Morelos](https://visitmexico.com/media/usercontent/6807c04425769-Templo-de-Ocotl%C3%A1n-de-Morelos

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